Introduction
In my last skincare post, I presented a beginner's guide to one of 2013's latest skincare crazes, the use of alphahydroxy acids (AHA) and betahydroxy acids (BHA) as a means of removing excess dead skin cells on the surface of your skin, revealing brighter skin, minimizing aging effects, helping with acne and hyperpigmentation. If you want to know the basics on both chemical exfoliants and how they differ from each other and traditional scrubs, then I would read that first here.
After learning about all of the benefits of chemical exfoliation, it was hard not to fall into the hype myself. When it comes to skincare in the internet beauty community, there are definite trends that arise. Caroline Hirons is a UK-based, seasoned, cosmetic consultant and trained facialist, who has a blog where she shares many witty reviews and skincare guidelines. Back in May, the Pixiwoo sisters interviewed Caroline for their Body Talk Daily channel, where she recommended a ton of skincare must-haves, including the frequent use of a chemical exfoliant in one's skincare routine. She specifically recommended the Biologique Recherche P50 toner, which uses a combination of lactic acid (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA). Unfortunately, this exfoliator is both (1) expensive and (2) not really available in Canada, to my knowledge. Therefore, for my first foray into the world of chemical exfoliation, I looked into finding a gentle AHA that had been generally well-reviewed online. While searching the blogosphere, I repeatedly found rave reviews of the Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner, which was pretty expensive at $31.00 CAD for 125mL, but still reasonable compared to other AHA/BHAs. I kept almost buying it at Shopper's Drugmart (Canadian drugstore) when I would drag my mother there, until Debs finally just picked it up for me one afternoon (thanks mom!).
After learning about all of the benefits of chemical exfoliation, it was hard not to fall into the hype myself. When it comes to skincare in the internet beauty community, there are definite trends that arise. Caroline Hirons is a UK-based, seasoned, cosmetic consultant and trained facialist, who has a blog where she shares many witty reviews and skincare guidelines. Back in May, the Pixiwoo sisters interviewed Caroline for their Body Talk Daily channel, where she recommended a ton of skincare must-haves, including the frequent use of a chemical exfoliant in one's skincare routine. She specifically recommended the Biologique Recherche P50 toner, which uses a combination of lactic acid (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA). Unfortunately, this exfoliator is both (1) expensive and (2) not really available in Canada, to my knowledge. Therefore, for my first foray into the world of chemical exfoliation, I looked into finding a gentle AHA that had been generally well-reviewed online. While searching the blogosphere, I repeatedly found rave reviews of the Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner, which was pretty expensive at $31.00 CAD for 125mL, but still reasonable compared to other AHA/BHAs. I kept almost buying it at Shopper's Drugmart (Canadian drugstore) when I would drag my mother there, until Debs finally just picked it up for me one afternoon (thanks mom!).
AHA: Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner
As with the Biologique Recherche P50, this exfoliating toner contains a combination of behatydroxy and alphahydroxy acids, specifically: tartaric (AHA), glycolic (AHA), and salicylic (BHA) acids. However, the amount of acids present in the Clarins toner is significantly less when compared to the the Biologique Recherche and many other exfoliators on the market. As such, I thought it would serve as a great pilot test for chemical exfoliation, in case I experienced any sort of adverse reaction (I know I'm supposed to still do a spot test on my arm, but I decided my un-sensitive skin could handle the low acid levels).
This is what Clarins has written regarding application directions on the toner's packaging:
This is what Clarins has written regarding application directions on the toner's packaging:
"Apply once or twice a week to a thoroughly cleansed face and neck with a cotton pad soaked in lotion. Avoid the eye contour area. Wait one minute before completing with your regular skin care routine."
Now, when it comes to using active chemical exfoliants, cosmetic companies tend to be rather apprehensive with their product's directions, in order to avoid any potential lawsuits. I felt completely comfortable applying this toner daily, and did so at nighttime to a fully cleansed face, before continuing with some sort of moisturizing oil or lotion. The toner is transparent with a thick liquid consistency, and I simply applied it all over my face using a regular cotton pad. Additionally, I ensured that I was consistently applying SPF in my morning skincare routine, as glycolic acid is known for increasing your skin's photosensitivity (making your skin more susceptible for sun damage).
How I felt about it
To be honest, I didn't really notice any significant difference in my skin while using this product. Granted, it can be difficult to ascertain any direct effect from using skin care product, as there are several other variables affecting your skin that simply can't be controlled for a proper long-term evaluation. That being said, I didn't notice any adverse skin reactions, irritation, or breakouts from using it either.
Pros:
Truthfully, I don't see myself buying this toner again anytime soon. I still want to try and incorporate alphahydroxy acids into my skin care routine, but I can't justify spending a significant amount of money on a product that just doesn't seem to do anything for me. I know that many of the benefits of AHA exfoliation are long-term, and can be more suited toward aging skin, so I won't disregard similar toners. Personally, I would look for a stronger acidic concentration next time, in the hopes of seeing a more significant effect. Another interesting option would be a nighttime moisturizer, or a weekly mask with alphahydroxy acids, though the prices of these tend to run rather high as well. Although I wouldn't repurchase this toner, I would still strongly recommend it to anyone with highly sensitive skin who may be scared of the whole acid-on-face thing. However, if your skin is hyper-sensitive, you still want to try a sample test of this product, and start with bi-weekly application (which you can then build up to daily, if you so desire).
Pros:
- A lesser-expensive option for alphahydroxy acid products (though still on the pricey side)
- This lasted me several (3.5) months of frequent use
- Super gentle
- Felt like I was doing good for my skin
- Did not dry out skin nor cause peeling
- Didn't notice any difference in skin texture, tone, or pore-cloggedness
Truthfully, I don't see myself buying this toner again anytime soon. I still want to try and incorporate alphahydroxy acids into my skin care routine, but I can't justify spending a significant amount of money on a product that just doesn't seem to do anything for me. I know that many of the benefits of AHA exfoliation are long-term, and can be more suited toward aging skin, so I won't disregard similar toners. Personally, I would look for a stronger acidic concentration next time, in the hopes of seeing a more significant effect. Another interesting option would be a nighttime moisturizer, or a weekly mask with alphahydroxy acids, though the prices of these tend to run rather high as well. Although I wouldn't repurchase this toner, I would still strongly recommend it to anyone with highly sensitive skin who may be scared of the whole acid-on-face thing. However, if your skin is hyper-sensitive, you still want to try a sample test of this product, and start with bi-weekly application (which you can then build up to daily, if you so desire).
BHA: Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment
So after my not-so-impressive experience with the Clarins exfoliation toner, I thought it was time to try a strictly betahydroxy acid exfoliant, as these are often cheaper and geared at a younger market due to their blemish-clearing properties. Neutrogena has always been one of my most trusted brands for no-nonsense, affordable skin care that uses quality ingredients and avoids unnecessary fragrances and additives. (Note: this product does contain a wee bit of fragrance, so that's a shame). The Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment contains 2% salicylic acid, which is a very common betahydroxy acid (BHA) used in several acne medications. Even in my teenage pre-skincare-obsessed days, I rocked out with some Clean & Clear salicylic acid acne treatments, which I would excessively use on any spot on my face, As this is a drugstore item, the price can vary by retailer, though I purchased it on sale for about $7.99 CAD (for 59mL) at Jean Coutu in Montreal. I recently finished that one up and repurchased it at Target for around $10.50 CAD.
The Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment (gosh, that's a mouthful) is part of the brand's Acne Stress Control line, which features a whole selection of skincare products (cleanser, scrubs) that are all oil-free and all contain salicylic acid. This skincare line also features Neutrogena's patented MICROCLEAR technology, (which means absolutely nothing to me) which is said to work in three different ways: (1) treats acne pimples and allows skin to heal, (2) helps prevent new acne pimples even before they emerge and (3) hydrates and softens. I don't exactly know the scientific experiments that back up MICROCLEAR, but I have used several products from Neutrogena with this "technology" and I am rarely disappointed. Although I do not have particularly troubled, breakout-prone skin, salicylic acid (betahydroxy acid) can have amazing exfoliation benefits for all skin types!
The product is marketed as an "acne treatment" medication, and therefore the directions are:
The Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment (gosh, that's a mouthful) is part of the brand's Acne Stress Control line, which features a whole selection of skincare products (cleanser, scrubs) that are all oil-free and all contain salicylic acid. This skincare line also features Neutrogena's patented MICROCLEAR technology, (which means absolutely nothing to me) which is said to work in three different ways: (1) treats acne pimples and allows skin to heal, (2) helps prevent new acne pimples even before they emerge and (3) hydrates and softens. I don't exactly know the scientific experiments that back up MICROCLEAR, but I have used several products from Neutrogena with this "technology" and I am rarely disappointed. Although I do not have particularly troubled, breakout-prone skin, salicylic acid (betahydroxy acid) can have amazing exfoliation benefits for all skin types!
The product is marketed as an "acne treatment" medication, and therefore the directions are:
Cleanse the skin thoroughly before applying medication. Cover the entire affected area with a thin layer one to three times daily or as directed by your doctor.
Now, I personally chose to use this product all over my face, and not just "affected areas," since I don't really have many of those anyway. Morning and night, I applied this product all over my face and neck after cleansing (and occasionally toning), then followed with any of my usual serums/moisturizers/oils.
Directions, Warnings, Ingredients (in alphabetical order, not by quantity)
How I felt about it
So you can understand the texture
As you can see, this product has a pretty serum, silicone, gel-like consistency that tends to feel pretty cooling on the face (but not in a menthol-y way, just in a fresh-feeling way). I found myself applying this almost twice a day, every day, and tried to really pat it into my pores and set in my skin before moving on to my moisturizer. Why did I use this so frequently? Because this thing really dang worked at exfoliating my skin.
Pros:
If the fact that I repurchased this product immediately after finishing it wasn't evidence enough, I will just reiterate: I LOVE THIS STUFF. Incorporating the 3-in-1 acne treatment into my daily routine was a smooth transition, and now I never skip a night of using this, if I can help it. Over the past couple of months, my skin has become noticeably smoother and gets less oily throughout the day. Additionally, I have noticed a much smaller amount of blackheads around my -zone area, which is quite the Christmas miracle (those blackheads were bad). I would recommend this product to anyone except those: with super-sensitive skin (always spot test first), with super-dry skin, that like fancy and/or expensive products, or those that are solely looking for a pre-makeup treatment (you will find that face bases are hard to blend with flaky dead skin, so try to actually get it off prior to makeup).
Non-surprisingly, Neutrogena created a solid no-frills BHA serum that properly exfoliates my skin and controls sebum production, while being super gentle and non-irritating. Don't let names, packaging and/or directions on labels fool you: several makeup products have a variety of potential uses, and these are often not all formally listed. I know that this product is targeted toward teens as an acne "medication" or "treatment," but I have encountered no problems with using it as a daily exfoliating serum, and I love waking up in the morning to smoother, cleaner skin.
Pros:
- Visible, feel-able difference in skin texture and radiance
- Lightweight texture absorbs pretty quickly
- Gentle enough for bi-daily use
- pH of 3.4: properly balanced for exfoliation to occur
- Comes in an easy squeeze tube that stands strongly on its cap, and uses every last bit of product
- Super affordable price point and easily accessible at drugstores
- Ingredients include antioxidants and anti-irritants
- Well reviewed ("BEST rating") by my experts at beautypedia, which can be read here
- Products containing salicylic acid are notorious for causing dryness and flaky skin. This product really must be accompanied by a moisturizer (ideally one with SPF) or this will occur
- You may want to avoid wearing this under makeup, as dead skin often wipes off my face in layers after using this product when trying to blend in any makeup
- Doesn't actually do much for acne (at least for me). I don't have real bad acne to begin with, but my occasional pimples have occurred just as frequently while using this as they did before
- I used this up after about 90 days, so it doesn't last as long as the Clarins exfoliator, but I did use it much more frequently
If the fact that I repurchased this product immediately after finishing it wasn't evidence enough, I will just reiterate: I LOVE THIS STUFF. Incorporating the 3-in-1 acne treatment into my daily routine was a smooth transition, and now I never skip a night of using this, if I can help it. Over the past couple of months, my skin has become noticeably smoother and gets less oily throughout the day. Additionally, I have noticed a much smaller amount of blackheads around my -zone area, which is quite the Christmas miracle (those blackheads were bad). I would recommend this product to anyone except those: with super-sensitive skin (always spot test first), with super-dry skin, that like fancy and/or expensive products, or those that are solely looking for a pre-makeup treatment (you will find that face bases are hard to blend with flaky dead skin, so try to actually get it off prior to makeup).
Non-surprisingly, Neutrogena created a solid no-frills BHA serum that properly exfoliates my skin and controls sebum production, while being super gentle and non-irritating. Don't let names, packaging and/or directions on labels fool you: several makeup products have a variety of potential uses, and these are often not all formally listed. I know that this product is targeted toward teens as an acne "medication" or "treatment," but I have encountered no problems with using it as a daily exfoliating serum, and I love waking up in the morning to smoother, cleaner skin.
Obviously, if I had to pick one...
I would get the Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment over the hyped-up Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner, because it is significantly cheaper and far more noticeably effective at exfoliating.
Keep in mind, this isn't me saying that betahydroxy acid (BHA) products are always better than alphahydroxy acids (AHA), especially since the Clarins toner contained both chemicals. Eventually, I hope to find a way of incorporating alphahydroxy acids into my skincare routine, when I can find an effective and affordable option. For now, my BHA exfoliant is doing an amazing job of keeping my skin super clean and fresh. Even if you keep it to once a week, exfoliating can do wonders for your skin, and I would highly recommend using a chemical exfoliant (whether or not you also use a scrub), if you do not already. I can't guarantee that you'll have the same experiences with these products as I have, but I would give either of them (depending in your skin type and concerns) a try in 2014 if you've lacked on your exfoliation this past year. That's a pretty easy new year's resolution to keep, with amazing potential benefits to reap.
Keep in mind, this isn't me saying that betahydroxy acid (BHA) products are always better than alphahydroxy acids (AHA), especially since the Clarins toner contained both chemicals. Eventually, I hope to find a way of incorporating alphahydroxy acids into my skincare routine, when I can find an effective and affordable option. For now, my BHA exfoliant is doing an amazing job of keeping my skin super clean and fresh. Even if you keep it to once a week, exfoliating can do wonders for your skin, and I would highly recommend using a chemical exfoliant (whether or not you also use a scrub), if you do not already. I can't guarantee that you'll have the same experiences with these products as I have, but I would give either of them (depending in your skin type and concerns) a try in 2014 if you've lacked on your exfoliation this past year. That's a pretty easy new year's resolution to keep, with amazing potential benefits to reap.
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